Tasting water like wine? What water sommeliers reveal

Statistically, India’s bottled water market size reached 9.5 billion dollars in 2024, according to a report by IMARC Group, a market research company. It expects the market to reach $29.7 billion by 2033, exhibiting a growth rate of 12.45 per cent during 2025-2033.

Ganesh Iyer

In India, natural mineral water brands such as Aava, Himalayan and Vedica offer distinct mineral profiles due to their unique sources, from the Aravallis to the Himalayas. “Water has many attributes,” says Iyer, adding that pH — a scale used to measure the acidity or basicity of aqueous solutions — is often overrated.

While water pairing is a well-established concept in Europe — particularly in fine dining and luxury hospitality — with countries such as Germany, France, Italy, and the Nordic regions embracing the practice of pairing water with food, based on its TDS (Total Dissolvable Liquids) content, minerality, and carbonation level, experts say the concept is still evolving in India. “We are seeing more high-end restaurants offering natural mineral and sparkling water. That’s a start,” says Avanti Mehta, a certified water sommelier and brand manager at Aava Natural Mineral Water.

For instance, Scarlett House in Bandra — an all-day café and diner, a section of which transforms into a wine bar at night — called in Fay Baretto, founder of Mumbai-based bar consultancy Mr Bartender and The Crew for their hydration programme. Co-owned by Dhaval Udeshi, Malaya Nagpal, Malaika Arora, and her son Arhaan Khan, Scarlett House offers a range of water-based concoctions.

One blend, designed for hair rejuvenation, features Vedica water, rosemary, toasted rice and orange slices, while another, aimed at relaxation, is made with Evian water, lavender, blue pea, and Italian lemon slices. Other blends focus on improving skin, enhancing focus and soothing bloating. While Baretto isn’t a certified water sommelier yet, she plans to enrol in a course soon. “An in-depth understanding of water would help me create better drinks — it could really elevate my work in this field,” she says.

Malaika Arora with Fay Baretto

Historically, famous water sources like Evian and Perrier were destinations in Europe where aristocrats would vacation for months. “During their stay, they noticed remarkable improvements in their well-being. Over time, people realised that drinking natural mineral or spring water had tangible health benefits, leading to commercial bottling. That’s how the industry was born,” says Iyer, adding that the term ‘spa’ itself originates from the Latin phrase Sanus Per Aquam, meaning “health through water”.

Delhi-based water sommelier Lakshitta S Khanna founded Bodh Waters two years ago, and today, dozens of restaurants across Delhi-NCR serve their water. “We initially sourced our water from Bhutan, and we now have an additional source in the Himalayan region of Rajgarh,” she says.

“TDS has an important role to play even if it is seen from an entirely different lens in India where high TDS means bad water even though the reality is far from it,” adds Mehta.

“Low TDS water (30-100 ppm) is considered ideal for pairing with whisky or vodka, as it doesn’t overpower the spirit. Medium TDS (200–600 ppm) is best for daily hydration. High TDS (700–2000 ppm) water has a strong mineral presence, with some of them being classified as curative water. A water with 2000+ ppm, considered very high TDS, is often used for therapeutic benefits,” shares Iyer, adding that TDS also influences food pairing. “A low TDS water pairs well with sushi, sparkling water complements seafood salads, medium TDS water enhances dishes like biryani or pulao, and a high TDS sparkling water aids digestion, making it perfect for barbecue,” he adds.

Avanti Mehta

Khanna has been actively working to introduce the concept of water menus and pairings in India and is beginning to see interest. “Lair in Delhi recently reached out — they are considering a water menu,” she says. Though the discussions are still in the early stages, she remains optimistic that water pairing will soon become part of India’s dining culture. “People will eventually realise how a salad pairs beautifully with light, airy water, or how certain waters enhance the flavours of specific cuisines and dishes,” she says.